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Over the years I've added some new CLs to the gang that weren't into them at first, but they watched the others, learned and eventually started going to town.

Yes, six 300 watt heaters. I have a video where I talk about the details of the heating system here: ruclips.net/video/m4j5N2eHIUU/видео.htmlsi=I5gl_V67Y3FnCmoa

Glad to hear you found the video helpful. What type of pool are you trying to heat? In ground, or one of those Intex above ground pools? It shouldn't really make a difference whether you have one 1,000 watt heating element or five 200 watt heaters. The energy going into heating the water would be the same in either case. I just liked that the Eheim heaters have a built-in thermostat that acts like a backup emergency shut-off in case the Rancho controller fails in the on position.

@@aldiaz33 above ground intex pool lol.. I have a water jet pointed right at it so circulation is good. I think I have a faulty heater. It's a Hygger 1000w heater with a digital screen on it to show temp. My annoyance come from the constant high heat beeping it does. I have it set to 80°f and when the auto shut off triggers the heat continues to rise reaching 93° and sets alarm off..

@@aldiaz33 I have a separate thermometer in there aswell and always reads about 75°-77°F. Multiple thermometers to be exact. I'm raising tilapia and they're doing great. It's the heating I'm constantly fighting to maintain. I've since used other heaters and those have kept a constant temp. But they're only 250 watts each. I have 2 in there. But I also use to have Multiple smaller heaters and that worked out great. I tried to reduce the amount of power cords by using a stronger heater.

​@@eggracer1 Yep, sounds like the temp probe on your hygger is bad. I don't trust the thermostats on any aquarium heater. They all seem to be really cheap junk. The Ranco temperature controller is used for all sorts of industrial applications so it's much more reliable than any made for the aquarium hobby. Might be worth checking out. If I ever set up an above ground pool as a pond, I'd lay down some rigid insulation under it as a temperature block. As much heat as you lose to the atmosphere, a pond setup on a concrete slab would also lose a lot of heat to the ground.

I'll try to get an video uploaded soon.

​@@aldiaz33yupiii

Just now seeing this. Aeration Aqua Action Ornaments -- Large Treasure Chest with Skull

The metal frame tanks bring back memories for sure. The big one is 54.5 x 18 x 20" tall which comes out to 85 gallons.

Video was filmed later in the evening (10PM). The clown loaches retreat to their hiding spots and go to sleep at around 8PM.

770 gallon display with a 150 gallon sump/filter.

AlexDanielDiaz@Gmail.com

@@aldiaz33 did you get my email?

They are a very skittish fish. Over time they have mellowed out a little bit, but when I do water changes they do get startled easily. I actually regret getting them. They are very fast, powerful open water fish and they need more room (more suited for a large tropical pond than a tank). If I knew they got this large, I would have gotten smaller growing varieties (either spotted SD or Red Hooks).

Oh thank you for the explanation Alex, but they really eyecatching in your tank, i think its really had the vocal point Alex, i hope they will last for very long time in your tank, and may mine get schooling around the tank like this

Happy Holidays Paulson!

¡Gracias! Sí, los peces en mayor parte son los mismos de hace muchos años. Siguen creciendo. Me alegro de que hayas disfrutado el vídeo.

770G 10'x3'x4'high

I'm not good at judging sizes of the fish, but I'd guess the biggest is in the 10"+/- range. A few months ago, the biggest alpha loach was challenged by the 2nd biggest. They were going at each other like this for 3-4 days. Not sure who won. They seem to get along perfectly fine now. I was worried I'd have to get rid of one if it kept up because they were really going at it. ruclips.net/video/gaPFBlcaYCE/видео.html

10 in the main tank, 2 fry that are about 8 months old (1") growing out in my 70G tank and just the other day I found a few more tiny (.25") fry in one of the overflows (not sure if those are the False Arulius barbs or Filament Barbs- too young to tell). The Rohani's look really similar to Filament Barbs, but I think they are a different species.

@@aldiaz33 wow, finding fry sounds exciting! I have Rohani barbs, which is why I assumed yours were the same. I love seeing tanks with larger schools. 🤩🤩🙌🙌

@@triciaperinger2675 You should upload a video. I'd love to see them. There are a bunch of similar looking varieties, apparently from India. Mascara Barb, Exclamation Barb and a few others with similar body shape, but different colors and sizes. Really cool fish.

Most fish were bought at local fish stores (most of which aren't in business anymore) and from hobbyist looking to re-home on Craigslist.

Oscar & Green Texas Cichlid are 11ish years old, Chocolate Cichlid is around 4 (I bought him a little older) Green Terror is 3, Red Tiger Severum is around 2. I have a Mesoheros Gephyrus in my 70G tank that's 2 years old, but he might be rehomed because he's more aggressive than I'd like.

Sounds like we have similar situations. In the summer, during extreme heat waves when it doesn't cool down much at night, I do water changes to help bring the temps down (I think the highest the tank has gotten is 87-88F). Usually, the warmest it gets coming from the tap is 80F so a water change helps a little bit. I'm not sure how many frozen 2 liter bottles I'd need to make a difference, but that's another strategy I've heard to help cool tanks when it gets really hot. The room my tank is in gets hot, but my garage absolutely cooks in the summer. I wouldn't be able to keep fish in there. For our winters, I think the styrofoam on the back panel helps, but the biggest benefit comes from having tight lids. My lids have gaps, so I've used saran wrap to reduce heat loss. Saran wrap has pretty much zero insulation but my goal is to keep that warm water from turning into steam, which is what water in the 70s wants to do when the air temps are in the low 50s. CLs down to 66? Wow, that's impressive. After seeing that burn mark on the power strip, I probably should remove a heater to get down to 1,500W. Good call. One of my heaters has a burnt out light, which coincidentally is the same one that is mislabeled 150W even though it's the same length as a typical 300W Eheim (20") and does pull 300W. 🤷‍♂️ Glad to hear you like the tank. I've been lucky that I've only had to deal with an Ich outbreak when I first set it up. Other than that, I haven't had any issues. I think it helps that I'm super paranoid about creating problems by adding any new fish.

Glad to hear you enjoyed the video. I saw you heard the explanation in my other video, but for anyone else wondering, the heaters are plugged into a Ranco ETC temperature controller set to 74-76 in the winter. So the Ranco determines when the heaters come on. Internal thermostats on the heaters themselves are set to 88-89F as a fail-safe high limit shut-off in case the Ranco ETC controller for whatever reason fails in the "on" position.

There's a group of Filament Barbs (Dawkinsia Filamentosa) and False Arulius Barbs (Puntius Arulius). Glad to hear you like the tank.

One of the reasons I don't have kids of my own! 🤣

You got it Paulson. Let me know if there's anything else you'd be interested in hearing about.

It's 770 gallons (2,914 liters) with a 150 gallon (568 liter) sump filter. Dimensions are 10' long x 3' wide x 4' tall.

@@aldiaz33 😱 wow

Thanks Catfish Cave.

ruclips.net/video/1V9iHthjGfQ/видео.html

They're insatiable, that's for sure!